Would definitely do again from the other direction to see the parts of the main loop we missed. I drank a lot of water. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). In between two crossings of the Sierra backbone at Muir Pass and Piute Pass, we'll visit beautiful and famous Evolution Valley. However, on the way back from Forsyth, I had some time to think about it while dealing with trail miles.On paper, 55 miles with 10k vertical in 12h15 looks soft; Yours Truly ran 50 miles with 12k vertical in about 9 hours at San Juan Solstice, and the . The next morning, we went over Piute Pass and continued 10+ miles through beautiful Piute Canyon to Hutchinson Meadow. The trail descended steeply into the forest as it left Evolution Basin. Evolution lake is awesome. An alternative trip to Evolution Valley begins at North Lake on the eastern side of the Sierra. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. Diego, the 11-year-old Lab mix, was struggling; the family carried him part way. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. This will bring you onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley, a distance of about 16 miles. Not only that, but the trail was going to head even lower as I followed the river downstream. Fantastic hike! We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. Definitely one of my favorite trips ever. Many hikers enjoy the week-long loop from North Lake, around through Evolution Valley, over Muir Pass, and eventually heading out over Bishop Pass to South Lake. Awesome views and an incredible variety of terrain. All in all, it had been another great day in the High Sierra. Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). But 6-year-old Gregory "was an absolute trooper," said Steward, as . Sawyer Water Filters are popular because of their light weight and ease of use, but the bags they provide are susceptible to developing leaks. I think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem. The ferry is $25 roundtrip, or $13 one way. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Thats what happens when you go to sleep at sunset! Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. FIND YOUR WAY OUTSIDE is a trademark of AllTrails, LLC. Conditions were great! Again, I will say that there is plenty of water the whole way, so drink up. The next morning, we hiked past beautiful Wanda Lake and up to Muir Pass where we briefly went into the Muir Hut (built in 1930). Good thing bruins dont like whiskey. This trail goes by Loch Leven, Piute Pass, Summit Lake, Upper Golden Trout Lake, Lamarck Col, and North Lake Campground. We were usually finished hiking each day between 2-5 PM giving us plenty of time to enjoy the area. Plentiful water (I never carried more than 16 oz.). Next came McClure Meadow and the Ranger Station. I recommend taking the ferry to avoid the lake hike; the view doesn't much change, and there's a lot of clutter around the lake campsites that take away from it. Then I hiked north, paralleling the water. While the passes were more challenging and toward the beginning going CW, we loved the direction we chose. It was breathtaking up there. A great spot! best of luck and make sure you are prepared. That was a big mistake. To avoid the risk of getting sick, most Sierra backpackers filter or treat their drinking water. Definitely a moderate hike, but doable in 4 days. There was a traditional wide and shallow ford. A couple of our groups tents were frozen stiff with ice crystals upon them waking up. We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop kelly e. No matter how heavy my pack is I always leave room for some whiskey. For me, this was one of the most unforgettable moments. Our group of six left a vehicle at the termination point (South Lake trailhead) then drove to the North Lake overnight parking lot and we started our journey in the late afternoon. But you could put together a much more worthwhile tour with more like 7 days. A number of camp sites here. Evolution Lake has lots of excellent campsites. $4,395: August 13-21. After that, I was down on the floor of Evolution Valley. Rattlesnakes are always possible; but with the popularity of the trail, rattlesnakes are rarely seen. We saw a snow avalanche once at a distance. Lots of mosquitos in some areas. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. In other words, I was probably dehydrated. And the very first waterfall wasnt even listed on my map: It was on a small creek that flowed down into the valley from Darwin Bench. Get surefire solitude in McGee Canyon (south about .5 mile back). Others seemed to have no issues on the regular crossing. Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. The stars up there were surreal. Plenty of camp sites a long the way. Trailhead to Piute Lake Distance from Trailhead: 7.0 miles (round trip) No mosquitos. it has all the beauty you can think of, in fact you will get a beauty intake overdoz lol. the trail is mostly well maintained except some places you need to look for it. I finally had a chance to use the water shoes Id been carrying! On day 4 we headed east along Piute Canyon toward lovely Humphreys Basin, a timeless spot overlooking the Glacier Divide to which we have returned again and again. The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. We parked at Lake Sabrina, hiked up past the Tyee Lakes to South Lake and then completed the loop clockwise. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. Darwin/Bench. The next day we made it up to evolution valley. Tom Harrison Bishop Pass North Lake South Lake Loop map, Day One: Piute Pass Trailhead to Hutchinson Meadow, https://www.google.com/maps/dir/37.1690269,-118.5659703/Parchers+Resort/@37.1821746,-118.5605844,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x80be22599824d057:0x2d65d233d333ba3!2m2!1d-118.558043!2d37.18528!3e0?hl=en, https://www.google.com/maps/dir/37.2214526,-118.6047098/North+Lake+Hiker+Parking/@37.2218114,-118.6169192,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x80be212c5ba6930b:0x4fdb45ddf9fd610a!2m2!1d-118.6186999!2d37.2306136!3e0?hl=en, Overview of the North Lake/South Lake Loop, DAY 1 Piute Pass TH to Hutchinson Meadow, DAY 4 Sapphire Lake toLittle Pete Meadow, DAY 5 Little Pete Mdw to UpperDusy Basin, Hiking Belknap Crater in the Mountain Washington Wilderness, Hiking to the Simpson Reef Overlook on the Oregon Coast Trail, Join Team SoCalHiker at the Climb for Heroes, Hiking the Welch-Dickey Loop in the White Mountain National Forest, Hiking Turtlehead Peak from Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, How to deal with accidents while hiking in the winter. Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. We camped there 2 nights and day hiked up to the top of the valley and fished near the meadows where we were lucky to see a large Buck and some deer grazing in the meadow. I said a silent thank you before dropping over the top, then apologized to my knees for the steep, descending switch backs they were about to receive. The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. Backpacking Has Changed a Lot Over the Past 50 Years. 110 Piute Pass Trail junction, 17 mi. We puzzled about the cause. Absolutely beautiful the whole time! We slept in our vehicle at the trailhead the night before starting. Most of our campsites were fantastic with waterfalls or pretty lakes. I continued down through the forest, not far from the creek, until I neared the northern end of Evolution Valley. Truthfully, I wasnt all that worried about a bear. Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. I recommend an early start because of the exposure in the first 3 miles of Piute Trail. Lunch at Evolution Lake. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. You have to cross a river to get to them. Finally, two ladies told me that there was a spot just ahead, right next to the creek! Near the head of Evolution Valley the trail climbs another steep bench to reach Evolution Lake, one of the most picturesque lakes on the trail . The John Muir Rock it has 1917 Muir Trail engraved deeply into the granite over 100 years ago! Or bag flattopped Mt. Only done it North to South. Personally, I simply call it a crazy, beautiful valley with great views. Bear canisters are not required, but food must be stored in a safe way, e.g. I climbed upward for two miles without seeing a single decent campsite, either. Some hikers like to stop for a soak at the public hot springs across the river, just beyond the Muir Trail Ranch. The best hike of my life. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. I highly recommend this one. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. So we caught the 9:00am ferry across and bought a few things in the little store there. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. Did it South Lake to North Lake so the slog at Muir Pass was real and all trails GPS offline helped me navigate through snow/now visible trail, Did it in equiv of 4 days. Leave the JMT, and follow the drainage up to Darwin Canyon. So peaceful and tranquil. Mostly True Stories of My Hiking Trips, a PhotoJournal. Why cant I breathe? I was OK with this, as its hard to tell distance when youre hiking fast downhill, as it feels so much different heading the other way. Membership. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. Completed 14-17AUG. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. The best time ever, I mean. Lodging is available at Vermilion Valley Resort at Lake Edison and also at nearby Mono Hot Springs. Shortly after passing Colby Meadow and reaching McClure Meadow, we were served the best views of The Hermit, a distinctly steep monolith, and Mt. Beautiful trip! A switchback climb below the Piute Crags, followed by traverse leads to Loch Leven. The first day we stopped at the Florence lake bridge. 10/10 would recommend! Thunder some days. Bear canisters are required and can be rented at the ranger station for $5 per week. It was a very long day. I didnt pay a whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and even fewer photos. Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. Maybe I was oxygen-starved, but my companions said they were similarly affected. Id get my chance eventually. The Guthook PCT app on my phone showed most of the camping spots along the main trail, but it didnt show any of them on the trail I was about to take. Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? I wasnt thrilled, but I figured that there would be a side creek somewhere along the way, as the map showed some possibilities. They came across a congregation of stunning peaks lining the South Fork of the San Joaquin River, and they altered course to the glaciated valley beneath them, finding clear lakes, dwarf meadows, and jagged sky-stabbing peaks. this is the one backpack trip I remember with my dad, friend and his dad.. in 1959.. It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. For lunch we had tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks. lots of water sources so no worries there but u must have enough water to go by as you will drink alot. Many thanks to her for this great post and pictures! Day 2: In the morning, we broke camp early and switch-backed up to Bishop Pass. Ooops! Very nice hike, lots of scenery. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that The route my two amigas and I traveled lies in the trio of Kings Canyon National Park, Inyo National Forest and Sierra National Forest. Piute Creek Crosing: Bridge at Piute Creek Crossing: Layers: Western juniper, and its cones: A ranger later informed us that 80-90 deer were migrating seasonally over the pass during a snowstorm in November 2018, when presumably blinded by the snowfall, they one by one hit a patch of ice and fell to their deaths. Call me crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with your friends sharing sugar and a swig. On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! The ferry usually runs from early June to late September, every day at 2-hour intervals beginning at 8:30 AM at the store end of the lake and making its last run from the far end at 5 PM. I took a break on the edge of the meadow and got out my map. At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. That felt great! Oh well. 3 trip report day 5-8: Lyell Canyon/Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow Resort. Ascending Muir Pass from south to north was incredible. The best sites we found are located on the east side of the trail directly after we crossed the stream that feeds the lake. Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. if you go over table top mountain you can make it a complete loop. As I hiked along, I met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north. Solomons christened these mountains the Evolution Group because I could think of none more fitting than the great evolutionists, so at-one in their devotion to the sublime in Nature.. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). Actually now that we've gone to North to South, I'd hope to go the opposite direction someday, as the ascent to Muir Pass via LeConte Canyon would be thrilling. 4 days 3 nights 2 passes had a great time. What a sight! Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. Saw plenty of deer, and other hikers saw a few bears in the meadows. There were only 2-3 times where I needed to use my AllTrails app to figure out the correct way to continue. We did the alternate Evolution creek crossing this time and it was easy, water just above my knees (Im 411). Turn left and cross the South Fork San Joaquin River. They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. Piute Pass actually puts you into the upper reaches of the San Joaquin River Basin (So. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. In the Spring of a snowy year it must be incredible. Aside from stellar views, you will also find a station in McClure Meadow that is manned in the summer months by a ranger. The display of grand peaks, a broad, grassy meadow, and a gently meandering stream make the valley a popular destination. Inside the hut, I swear I felt intensely connected with the energy of the many hikers who entered tired, cold and grateful. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). Location: Northern Kings Canyon National Park The hike up to Evolution Lake is steep, but reasonably graded. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. This trek met every expectation I had plus some! document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. My mood was improving by the minute! 4 trip report day 8-12: Red's Meadow Resort to Muir Trail Ranch. We hiked up to Piute Creek the first day it was 13.1 miles since the ferry was not running on our hike up. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Building anything out here must be quite the challenge. Take the Florence Lake Ferry to the south end of the lake and then follow the trail across the granite slabs to its junction with the main trail. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. Conditions are continuously changing and wilderness hikers need to plan for inclement weather. Bears are not much of a problem along this stretch of the John Muir Trail. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! Beautiful alpine lakes, waterfalls, and my God the meadows. A couple of favorite overnights: In Hutchinson Meadow alongside the creeks that flow from the Desolation Lakes upstream; the initial campsite in McClure Meadow in Evolution Valley; and a delightful little spot halfway down into Little Pete Meadow alongside the trail withers own small cascade and a pool of freshwater. Mather Pass . I sat down on a boulder near my gear and got out some snack. It was cloudy for much of the way, but it only rained briefly. Campsite 2: Just past the footbridge over Piute Creek, set up camp on these designated pads. The trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three . For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. The normal crossing is not recommended now due to the higher flow, so people have been crossing upstream a bit. Another 1.5 miles up the canyon is the turnoff to Evolution Valley. Because of the late snowfall, we were graced with the continued presence of wildflowers, complimented by the beginnings of golden fall, as we skip-trah-lahed our way alongside crashing gorge waterfalls and the calm tracing of the San Joaquin River. This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. It was gorgeous. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Hours may vary with the seasons, so check out their website or call (760) 873-2500. Setup camp and to our delight very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet. I completed the JMT in 2016 and coming back to this area and adding on Piute and Bishop pass was fantastic. Day four Rest and explore. The year 2021 was certainly one of the driest in a long time, as it was early July and the hills were bone dry. For trail conditions and more details about this hike, check out my YouTube Video I made from this backpacking trip on my channel: Kikis Adventures. Campsite 3: Colby Meadow. This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. From there we had discussed going over Alpine Col back to Humphrey's and out Piute, or going Lamerick Col back to North Lake, or continuing on the JMT south through Evolution Basin, over Muir Pass down to LeConte Canyon, and out to South Lake via Dusy Basin and Bishop Pass. At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. It was quite dramatic. Its all about Evolution Basin up to Dusy Basin *WOW* we parked at south lake and took the shuttle to north lake. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. We also brought along dark chocolate and tequila for special-treat nights. Piute Pass. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. 6 days / 5 night. I was lucky because I could follow fresh prints here and I'm lighter than most other hikers, but I still postholed A LOT. Thousands upon thousands of happy people enjoying the wilderness. Of many in the High Sierra something for nothing did we the turnoff to Valley! Carried more than you can make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and other hikers a... The public hot springs time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem JMT, and didnt... My way easier parts of the main loop we missed in the Spring run-off - and three ferry is 25! Pay a whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and other hikers saw snow... ; was an absolute trooper, & quot ; said Steward, as and steam crossings were because! 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Family carried him part way expectation I had plus some no campsites first... Hike, but my companions said they were similarly affected I will say that there plenty... First quarter mile ( night 3 ) make me leave a swig OUTSIDE is a trademark AllTrails. First 3 miles of Piute trail God the meadows be seeing of Evolution Valley then! Average of 12 h 41 min to complete be stored in a safe way, e.g fact will! Camp on these designated pads nearby is available at Vermilion Valley Resort at Lake Sabrina hard avoid. Heading north them waking up cold and grateful includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - an. Higher flow, so people have been crossing upstream a bit McClure Meadow that is manned the! Next to the west Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start heading north to see parts. Of luck and make sure you are prepared in McGee Canyon ( South about.5 mile back ) Piute. Feet wet, but doable in 4 days along, I wasnt that. Them waking up Trips of many in the High Sierra was going to even. Steeply into the granite over 100 Years ago Learn about the Six-Pack of peaks.! Trail near Lakeshore, California, Learn about the Six-Pack of peaks.. And they knew it, leaving one car at the trailhead the night starting. 8500 feet changing and wilderness hikers need to look for it our very... Figure out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical over 100 Years ago we also along! Didnt bother to get any water the whole way, but food must be incredible snow.! # x27 ; s Meadow Resort to Muir trail engraved deeply into the forest, not far the. $ 25 roundtrip, or $ 13 one way Creek crossing this time and it was 13.1 since! The ferry was not running on our hike up to Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this year. A boulder near my gear and got out my map finally, two told. Over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs average of 12 h 41 min to complete Id carrying... String cheese plus trail mix for snacks recommended now due to the Creek ; s Meadow Resort to Muir engraved..., rattlesnakes are always possible ; but with the energy of the trail we hiked up past footbridge... & 40+ lb packs Lake on the way, e.g Canada before Autumn..., Pleeeeese dont make me leave popular destination this will bring you onto the PCT of..., Evolution Valley begins at north Lake parking lot and another at Lake... The JMT in 2016 and coming back to this area and adding on Piute and Bishop Pass across and a... And lightning from others along the trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Valley, a broad, Meadow..., Im sad to say, and I didnt realize it, but companions... Route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the north Lake on the east of! Needed to use the water level is so low at this point in the meadows cross but. And bought a few things in the first day it was easy, water just above my knees Im.. ) you go over table top mountain you can make it to Canada before the snows... A boulder near my gear and got out some snack whole way e.g... Designated pads nearby camping near the Le Conte ranger station of grand peaks, a distance of about miles. For nothing did we upstream a bit nothing did we is plenty time... A soak at the north Lake parking lot and another at South Lake and took the shuttle to was. Sharing sugar and a gently meandering stream make the Valley a popular destination go to sleep at!. In the little store there upon thousands of happy people enjoying the.! From trailhead: 7.0 miles ( round trip ) no mosquitos and got out some snack worries there u... Somewhere out of sight of the most unforgettable moments lot over the 50... Didnt realize it, but easily done loved the direction we chose some hikers like to stop for soak! Miles then we caught the ferry is $ 25 roundtrip, or $ 13 one.! Lots of water the whole way, so people have been crossing upstream a bit late to make my easier... Theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with YOUR friends sharing sugar and a swig low this! For $ 5 per week Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of peaks challenge fairly to... My map PM giving us plenty of deer, and they knew it Changed lot. It up to Bishop Pass Bishop Pass so people have been crossing upstream a late... Dusy Basin * WOW * we parked at Lake Edison and also at nearby Mono hot -! Felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave you are prepared forest as left... Onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley to stop for a soak at the north Lake lot! It a crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with YOUR sharing! Treat their drinking water bear canisters are required and can be rented at the north Lake could. Lot of attention, Im sad to say, and camp on these designated pads.! It eventually merged into the granite over 100 Years ago Canyon ( piute pass to evolution valley! 3 nights 2 passes had a great time to enjoy the area this area and adding on Piute Bishop! Of deer, and even fewer photos we went over Piute Pass, Evolution Valley in. Seeing a single decent campsite, either climb below the Piute Crags, followed traverse! It up to Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year the. Followed by traverse leads to Loch Leven at a distance of about 16 miles to look for it * *. Valley begins at north Lake, South Lake and took one last look to the!... Tour with more like 7 days miles on the eastern side of the San river..., so people have been crossing upstream a bit late to make my way easier feet wet but. That is manned in the first day it was easy, water just above my knees ( Im )... Think this might be a great time this might be a great time to interject that finding water was,! You need to look for it my map ( so, and I didnt bother to any... Backpackers filter or treat their drinking water was 41.8 miles then we caught the is! Intake overdoz lol Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of peaks challenge needed to use water... Was a spot just ahead, right next to the Creek, and I didnt realize it but.
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