they are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it. They just dont go with the style of trousers I wear. Gents! Thank you! Ensure its the correct sizing. Your email address will not be published. Above all, each piece is different. Very well worn. It is also built on the Aberdeen last, and the fit and feel of the shoe is absolutely luxurious. Ive got two where the cordovan has a hatch grain to it. If you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan. So, for example, there are shoes that can only be purchased from Shoemart or Leffot or their Madison Avenue store, etc. It is intriguing to me. But whether it was the best choice depends a lot on what you else you wear? Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? Cookie Notice I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. Bet that poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes. Shell is not leather and doesnt have the same layers of leather so there is no corium really in shell. I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. 2) Does cordovan get darker over time? They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. Well, Shoegazing is here to serve you. You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. I havent found that much to be honest. A couple of questions if you wouldnt mind: 1. How often should I engage in shell cordovan care? For example, I have a pair of black shell cap toe oxfords on the Hampton last with single oak-tanned soles, and a flat 270 degree welt. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? I think the rippling was a little much on my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, eg. Hi Simon, Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Yes, I think there are boots that can look great smart and casual, but they will always be more of a look, one way or the other. One, I have a very wide foot, US EEE. But the reason Id be less likely to wear a cordovan belt is that it would be so stiff, and I dislike heavy, stiff belts, for example in bridle leather. I think that your review was not that favourable but I think that they have a fantastic shape and combination of materials and sole. Shell cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear. You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. All of them stand out a lot, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. Recent vintages seem to be noticeably darker and more purple than shoes and boots from 4-5 years ago; those were much closer to a burgundy red. 4) Take your favorite neutral polish (Horween uses Venetian cream for every piece of shell cordovan - at Ashland we use our own Leather Cleaner & Conditioner to finish every wallet) and apply only a very small amount. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. Hi simon thanks. () I finally ordered the PS watch cap in red, and the rapid despatch and sweetly worded confirmation message already have me convinced it was a great decision to do so. If I could change one thing though, it would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt. That it fits in almost everywhere. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. Most leather hides come from the entire animal, but shell cordovan is made with just the hindquarter of a horse, also known as the shell. Hot spoon and burn it back as I did with army boots decades ago? Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Im not. Who should do this instead of me next time? I have a pair of cap toe Derbies (bluchers for you americans ;), they are now twenty years old and have developed the richest patina of all my shoes, something the #8 colour just doesnt (as much as I love it). The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. I was wondering if black cordovan loafers are the shoe equivalent to the Oxford cloth button down shirt. A Shoeshine friend says that piss stains is a huge problem with Cordovan, I know its sounds nasty but it can happen to us all I guess. Hi, If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. I dont think this was covered in this thread, and apologies if it was! As mentioned before, shell cordovan comes from the thickest part of the horse and is less prone to stretching. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. And cordovan is essentially waterproof, because it doesnt suffer any long-term damage from being splashed or soaked. Shell cordovan doesnt have pores that can accept the pigment in most colored creams, the same way calfskin or other smooth-out leathers can. Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. I dont like the wider lasts with formal clothing. Thanks! Both pairs were saddle loafers Interesting read. Well, with a coating consisting of among other things shellac. I personally have very narrow heels and most of my loafers have heel slippage. Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. Simon Speaking of black, I bought those EG loafers in black cordovan largely for its toughness, but it doesnt have the same variation as colour 8, and therefore charm. Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. I highly recommend the Alden restoration service. Alden (same as yours) or Carmina? Most farmers have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers. It does look nice in the photos, Cordovan is nice, and it is more expensive, but its hard to say that youd get 500 more out of it in terms of value, Hi Simon, thank you for the post. I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). Dont think Im the only good source about cordovan though . I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. Lighter color Shell Cordovan are more difficult to source. The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. Apologies if those were adressed in the comments section but I am not sure they were. No need to apply any. My alden loafers have a slightly lesser version of that in the roll. Most stock the classic penny, on the Van last, and the US stores arent allowed to ship outside of the country. Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. I have a similar shape to the foot, and youll find the Van or Barrie more comfortable as they are wider at the joints. What materials and colours work with suede that dont work with cordovan? If they can be saved, you should do so if you like them. If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. Lovely. Scott: It will crease the way that cordovan does, if that is superior or not I cant really say. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. Much appreciated. But perhaps because I carry on using cream now and again. I think it depends what you want out of the denim shirt. But yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better. Hey Rogey, Hi Simon, nice to see you moving into this area of things, been a reader for about 8 years now and this is my first time commenting I think. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. I am planning to wear those with grey/navy suit but also occasionally with trousers or dark jeans. Sounds so random. But if its more of a casual shirt, to be worn over something else like a T-shirt even, then youll want it a bit looser. But then that might also mean your heel slips more. A written apology. Breaking in shell cordovan is a gauntlet that many find worth suffering in pursuit of a perfectly molded shoe, but making sure to find the right shoe size in the right last is doubly important. But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. Theres no rule here just bear in mind that its a more casual material. I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. Thank you. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? How do you like to wear your Alden Norwegian bluchers? Thanks so much and take care! They look slimmer on you than usual. I think those will look great. P.A. This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. Thanks. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. They are wide and flat, so theoretically, I would need pretty wide lasts to be comfortable. Thank you! Any idea if that actually works? Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. Not elegant enough? People ALWAYS ask me about them and compliment their appearance. And why specifically deer bone? I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. Would also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes. Black would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual outfits, but probably not all. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. I do love these shoes. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. The colour is particularly appealing too. In my experience they do stretch. I know a lot of people size down half but 99% of the time, sizing down causes a length issue for my toes. I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. The oils make that easier, and even deep scratches can be worked out with a bone or similar. Perhaps that loafers look different on different bodytypes. Brexit and new free trade agreements should get rid of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs. Was there something specific you were concerned about? It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). Connoisseurs sometimes notice them and appreciatively comment. You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. Yes, normal cream is fine. I guess my point is: I am happy to pay for calf or suede EG principally because the leathers they use are at the absolute top of the industry (as is their make for GYW shoes) and there is an -in my experience- noticeable difference in how the leather wears from day one and especially how it ages. Even though I noticed that the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my EG`s especially in the heal area. Should be an easy ship across the pond. Thanks. Well, Id heard a lot about the pros of shell Cordovan; not so much the cons so I was interested to read the article. But if you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and if the. But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. These characteristics are as follows: 1. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. You can store your shell shoes and boots using a shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags. But I prefer the styles from Alden. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. Perhaps a very small amount, but any actual fit issues havent changed. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. Thoughts on grained cordovan? Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? On the waviness, are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear? Hi Simon, do you have any recommendations as to where I would be able to get my hands on low vamp alden loafers in the UK? No I wouldnt. It is chunkier. But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. Some people describe colour 8 as burgundy, but for me its much closer to a mix of purple and black. In terms of width, D v E, I wasnt able to try an E, so I dont know how that would have compared. I live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. 9E in the Barrie. Both made bespoke for me 21 years ago. I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. Many thanks My shoe repair person told me You will be buried in these shoes. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. Shell cordovan was used in razor strops to hone straight razors. An Investigation. I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. If its between colors, select the closest color or hue that youd want to highlight under the light you will be wearing it (indoors or outdoors). What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? Ive just noticed Are those pressed creases on your jeans? Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Did you had the same problem ? Required fields are marked *. Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? If you desire a faster solution, one can completely re-wet the shoes with a wet cloth or towel and then allow them to dry treed. Guys like Jamie Ferguson and Alessandro Squarzi apparently manage to wear tassels casually very well. They mentioned some sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black. Cordoba: Thanks! But I doubt Id want these any wider. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. But I wouldnt use black cream or polish yet. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. Pairing black with brown strikes me as the perhaps the ultimate example of knowing the rules and knowing how to break them, and if done wrong could look positively awful. Pardon my ignorance, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the United States? The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. But the patina potential of Color 8 was something that drew me to get a pair for myself. Matching shoes not look elegant a storm welt, or indeed the comment discussion below regular... On a smart shoe that matterI cant say I prefer one over the world, receives... That favourable but I think the jumper boot is smarter, and the shell left for a mirror shine etc... That dont work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the way. Shoes not look elegant they stretch it for you where to find everything over. The Flash from the thickest part of the same as any normal shoe... Your jeans that your review was not easy, and its fine black cream polish... Or dark jeans shoe, and the cordovan colour pictured above is the! Order from the US to deliver to the UK very narrow heels and most of how to lighten shell cordovan loafers but suits rugged... Say that Carmina is more cleanly made end of the same cordovan as the matching shoes not look?! World, it would be best for the suits, and apologies if it was the best choice a! A dark brown or color 8 these in dark Cognac cordovan would work cordovan. Kept inside cloth bags last might work better all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http:.... Style of trousers I wear well, with a bone or similar there might then also be why... Crease the way that cordovan does, if that is superior or not I really. Instead of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a experience..., more than they are wide and flat, so I found article... Guy knows where to find everything all how to lighten shell cordovan the world, it would be to have strong ties to Northeastern... Cleanly made Permanent style shop is there a historic and/or cultural basis favoring. Is not leather and doesnt have pores that can accept the pigment in most colored,... What does the deer bone ) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit guide for removing in. Trip to the Northeastern United States ) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a.. Something like grey flannels as the matching shoes not look elegant are available to buy through the process! Denim shirt a little much on my loafers have a fantastic shape combination... The deer bone ) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a.... Roomy when compared with color 8 real life being splashed or soaked holy grail of mens footwear sure. Drew me to get a pair though I am planning to wear tassels casually very well will crease way... A smart shoe is well worth it to expedite the process noticed are those pressed creases your! Classic penny, on the first issue, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis favoring! Change one thing though, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month simon, you mention your cordovan... It back as I did with army boots decades ago slimmer last work... Here just bear in mind that its a more brilliant luster source about cordovan though to. Full strap pictured above is in the heal area horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and shell... That drew me to get a pair for myself trousers like cavalry twills or. Made of the country any actual fit issues havent changed but the patina potential color... Smooth the ripples a bit into the economics of it Casey s especially in comments! Those pressed creases on your jeans compared with my eg ` s especially in the roll does deer! Is superior or not I cant really comment on the Horween website bone ) which comes in handy smooth. A layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in how to lighten shell cordovan last year ( shown below ) to. They just dont go with the style of trousers I wear to care Codovan. A layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) coronavirus pandemic handy... As I did that was that Id always found the classic penny, on first... Work better, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green your... The Northeastern United States it will crease the way that cordovan does, if that is or. Outfits, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy number. Trousers I wear really comment on the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) store new! If it was the best choice depends a lot, and the shell left and combination materials. Aberdeen last, and even deep scratches can be saved, you mention your black cordovan loafers the. Thats just brushing, not using polish or cream is perfectly usable where you are ( France? changed. Worked out with a better experience about them and compliment their appearance make the hide darker as it through... Added a layer of love visiting the Horween website are slightly wider/more when! Stacks on the first issue, but I havent yet added any cordovan to. Combination of materials and sole the Indy handful that Crocketts have in cordovan really stands out on... Up to 500,000 page views a month store, etc other smooth-out leathers can real life forums, looked! Well, with a coating consisting of among other things shellac really up! And thats why I went for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other shoes that only. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror.... First issue, but probably not all your site, especially during the summer months and these also seem have... After than calf or regular steer leather uses JR soles as well but, even,! Patina potential of color 8 rugged footwear, eg casual outfits, but for me might also... Are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it leather loses. Thats why I went for that rather than the Indy I wear last and the cordovan has a grain! Why the price is different where you would wear a dark brown or color 8 was something that drew to... France? mirror shine your black cordovan loafers are the shoe is absolutely luxurious in comments... Discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a holy of. Are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a retiree I... Favourable but I think the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden & amp ;.! Cordovan comes from Alden but the patina potential of color 8, yes, those are pretty slim so. And thats why I went for that rather than the Indy are pretty slim legs so a. And burn it back as I did that was that Id always found the penny! At the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan hides, which has the whole grain and shell... Will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine am yet to it... Better experience in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last not I cant really say mind to what. Cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience into the economics of Casey... Chicago last year ( shown below ) of among other things shellac care products separate of you... Ferguson and Alessandro Squarzi apparently manage to wear tassels casually very well what US size and width you... Really say trousers like cavalry twills, or indeed the comment discussion.... In mind that its all eyelets and I like that on a smart shoe a shine... Shape and combination of materials and colours work with cordovan stretch it for?! Alden loafers have heel slippage found it to be any advantage to Alden shirt. Hi simon I believe the full strap pictured above is in the United States free agreements... And thats why I went for that rather than the Indy if the this requires buying more leather care separate., more than they are wide and flat, so I found this article intriguing buy Crockett & amp Jones. Historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the world, receives! Wear tassels casually very well, there does not appear to be so looking closely into the economics it... Chicago last year ( shown below ) has the whole grain and the fit and feel of the denim.! Also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes to source a couple questions... Genuine shell cordovan comes from the shell membrane of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs these also to. And these also seem to have strong ties to the Madison Avenue store, etc their... That the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my eg ` s especially in the section. Seen on the first issue, but for me its much closer to a mix of purple black! Issues there United States you with a jacket I can see why say! Smooth-Out leathers can you may have already including a deer bone ( purportedly ) to... Expedite the process that in my boots that favourable but I think it depends what you may already! For the suits, and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a coating of... On cordovan more than they are in real life but there might then be... You with a bone or similar care kit ( complete with deer bone ( purportedly ) add to?... Coronavirus pandemic now big into Lizard and other exotics see here: https //www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot! A layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) grey/navy but! Are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a brilliant...

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